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CIRCUIT DIAGRAMS Typical
automotive ignition module theory
Yamaha Power
Diagram
Yamaha partial
schematic diagram
Starter
interupt and flashing led.
Starter kill with delay
- Starter and fuel (scr))
- Fuel kill (scr)
Brake failure
system diagram
Turn off your car stereo when you leave
Light dimmer
control (uses battery)
20 Minute timer full
diagram
Water
valve pulser LM555 Monostable (updated)
Ignition adaptor
C140
Injector
diagram
LED Flasher alternative uses two
transistors
Increase
lamp brightness by RPM
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BMW 318
Today we replace all four rotors on the BMW. Two front rotors for
$50 shipped and two back rotors made from Germany $90 shipped were
installed easily.
The only major problem was that the Allen Head Bolt for Brake Disc
to Hub bolt was rusted in place. It was drilled out. Yes, I'd used
anti rust and flame then punch it out but it will not budge.
Upon the haste I'd drilled the center of the bolt which is a
no-no. The preferred way to to use an angle grinder as shown in
method two below.

How to Drill the Allen Head Bolt for Brake Disc to Hub. Directions:
Drill out the head of the bolt when it's rusted and won't come loose.
Remove the hub and grind the bolt flush to the hub. Punch three spots
on the hub indicated by the arrows. Drill with a small drill bit then
increase in size. Punch out the bolt when the bolt is weak. Directions
for method 2: This is the preferred method. Grind the head
of the bolt with an angle grinder until the rotor can be
removed. Remove the rotor. Grind the bolt to form a rectangle
shape for a monkey wrench. Soak the bolt thread with a bolt
remover formula. Use the monkey wrench to loosen the bolt.
Check out how I grind the nut to fit a monkey wrench.
The rear rotor was installed without problems. Upon installation I
coat the rotor (not the rotor pad surface) with varnish to prevent
rust. I used grease on the Allen Head Bolt and installed it. I
use anti seize compounds on the wheel to hub nut and torque to
80lb-ft.
The other problem with the BMW is that the suspension is loose when
driving on a bumpy surface at high speeds. The front suspensions are
check and there were no wear found .
Other problems faced with the car:
- Window track broke. Was fixed with stainless steel wire. As good
as new since a year ago.
- Electric gas lid popper electric wire was open. The wire was
rerouted.
- The hand brake light on dash keeps coming on. The fix is to take
the instrument gauge out and bang on the instrument a bit and
install it back in. Apparently, a loose wire is inside the
instrument gauge is the culprit. I'd never got the gauge out
because I didn't want to remove the steering wheel and airbag.
- Radiator exploded.
- Radiator fan resistor rusted and open.
- Windshield broke. Caused from leaning on plastic laundry basket
at the driver seat position which smashed against the front windshield which formed a
hairline crack. (A $400 windshield repair.)
- One modification made: An inner trunk popper was made in case
the driver is locked in the trunk. A steel cable is strung to the
release lever and protrude outside of the panel with a handle for
who ever is locked in the trunk to pull if needed.

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